Religious heritage in Poland below and above ground

Although I'm not a believer in any religious dogma--including Roman Catholicism, the faith I was born into--I was impressed with my visits to churches in Poland. Churches there are monuments to art and beauty, resilience in difficult times, and the history of culture in this country. I could feel an appreciation for all three elements on my trip to Poland this spring. I'll write about my experiences in four of them here.

Most impressive on all three counts was, hands down, the Wielczka (Vee-LEETS-ka) Salt Mine, which Renate and I visited one cool and rainy Sunday afternoon in early May. It's an hour's journey from Krakow, and we enjoyed the chance for a bus ride to this small town, made famous by the salt mine, now a UNESCO Heritage site. The mine, which closed in the mid-90s after four centuries of active mining, is full of stunning sculptures and bas reliefs, all carved from salt by the miners themselves. It was a 3-hour tour, which involved walking down countless steps, hundreds of feet under the earth. I took almost no pictures due to camera/lighting challenges, but no matter. No photos can really do justice to this place. Please take 6 minutes to watch this excellent Youtube video which will give you a taste of what we saw and learned that afternoon. Here's a stock photo of one room; the art, walls, floors--even the chandeliers--are all made of salt.

Mining has always been a hazardous occupation, especially so in the 16th and 17th centuries when one out of every 10 miners died in methane explosions. No doubt the art here was a prayer as much as an expression of beauty. Really, watch the video. You'll share in that feeling too.

Another religious site--perhaps the most revered in all of Poland--is the Wawel Cathedral on the far edge of Krakow's Old Town. It's part of Wawel Hill, which also includes the royal castle from which Poland was ruled for 500 years. Saints, kings,  and scholars are buried here in what has been called (by Pope John Paul II) the "sanctuary of the nation." With this in mind,  I viewed Wawel Cathedral more through a cultural than a religious lens. Yet, the cathedral is definitely designed for religious contemplation and awe. Here are two photos posted on Trip Advisor by a reviewer better equipped for photography than I was. The first is the nave of the cathedral with its arched Gothic vaulting. The second is the most celebrated side chapel--the Sigismund Chapel, a masterpiece of Renaissance art.

And here's a view from the outside--with me dressed for the cold weather despite the flowers of spring behind me.

On another day we visited another celebrated Catholic site in Krakow--Mariacki Church (St. Mary's), which our guidebook told us was one of the finest medieval structures in the country, dating from the 1220s. Later in the century two Romanesque towers were added, one eventually serving as a lookout tower. Legend has it that in the 13th century a watchman saw the Tatar invaders approaching and took up his trumpet to raise the alarm. He was killed with an arrow through his throat, but is still remembered today, every hour, when a lone trumpeter plays the bugle call four times from four windows. Renate went outside to listen at the appointed time, but I stayed inside, still absorbing the feeling of this ancient cathedral. Here are three of my photos. The first is of the majestic high altar with sculptures by the German master Veit Stoss (1440-1533). Unfortunately for visitors this year and next, the altar is undergoing restoration. Though much was covered we could see some of Stoss' artistry. The second photo below is my photo from a postcard.

I imagined how many prayers must have been said in this church over the centuries, how many hopes and sorrows are stored in the walls and also how much comfort and peace worshippers must have received from the beauty and light. To the left of the main altar was a bank of candles, similar to those which I remember from my church-going childhood in Hammond, Indiana. My mother used to light candles often in memory of her parents, my grandparents Leon and Barbara. They emigrated from Warsaw in the early 20th century, probably never having had the opportunity to visit Krakow's spiritual centers. I lit a candle and held some thoughts for them before leaving this exquisite space.

Although it is far less significant in size and history than the Salt Mine, the Wawel Cathedral and the Mariaki Church, a church in Wroclaw--the first city we visited in Poland--remains in my memory. On our way from our hotel to the town square, we passed St. Maria's Church several times. I remember our first stop there early in the day, a place where tourists were not congregating. and the atmosphere was very peaceful.

I sat there for awhile, letting the light from the stained glass wash over me and imagining the many human emotions that have filled this space. Later in the day, we stopped by again and listened to a group of nuns singing, with the lyrics digitized on that small black screen shown in the background. In a side room a group of parishioners were animatedly conversing in sign. I realized how churches have their daily rhythm too, and how the timing of our visit shapes our experience.

Next: The Jewish Quarter and Auschwitz